51 Inch Chinook Salmon Found

Doug Killam, Associate Fisheries Biologist for the Department of Fish and Game (DFG) found this monster Chinook while conducting a Salmon Survey on Battle Creek in California.  The average salmon for the area weighs between 20 and 30 pounds.  This behemoth most likely outweighed the states 88 pound record when it was alive.

51 inch salmon found on Battle Creek in California

Chinook Salmon are born in freshwater rivers then move to the ocean to mature.  Later in life (usually 3-4 years, but as many as 8 years) the Salmon returns to the same river that it was born in to spawn.  Since Chinook Salmon die shortly after spawning, DFG biologist frequently walk the banks in search of carcasses to count the number of fish that may have spawned.

In recent years the number of Chinooks that have made it upriver to spawn has dramatically decreased.  Hopefully, this specimen was able to successfully spawn and pass along its superior genes before dying.

Aquarium Aquascaping

Wikipedia defines aquascaping as “an art form practiced by aquarium enthusiasts that entails arranging aquatic plants, as well as rocks, stones, cavework, or driftwood in an aesthetically pleasing manner within an aquarium.” This is really just a fancy way of saying that aquascaping is decorating your aquarium to make it look nice.  Aquascaping allows you to use your own creativity to set up a pleasing environment for your fish.

Aquascaping

When you are ready to aquascape your aquarium, the first thing you should do is research the fish that you want to keep and determine what their environment is like in the wild.  Making your aquarium as close to the natural environment as possible will help your fish live long, healthy and happy lives.  Infomation on most common fish is readily available on the internet.

After learning about the fish you intend to keep, I strongly suggest that you get some graph paper and draw some pictures of what you want the aquarium to look like.  Draw one picture as viewed from the front, and one as viewed from the top.  A little bit of planning up front will drastically improve your results.

When aquascaping, the look of the aquarium and the materials used are completely up to you.  I do advise against using common items such as marbles, construction sand and glass chips.  Sand and glass can have sharp edges that are dangerous to your fish.  Marbles tend to have large spaces between them allowing uneaten food and fish waste to become trapped and foul the water.  Be sure that the edges of all decorations are smooth so your fish are not injured by them.

Selecting The Right Aquarium Stand

Selecting the right aquarium stand is just as important as selecting the right aquarium.  You want your stand to be attractive and you need your stand to be level, strong and sturdy.  It’s best not to use old furniture as small leaks can cause water damage and ruin the finish.  Also, a filled fish tank can cause wood to warp on furniture that was not meant to support the extreme weight of an aquarium system. 

The aquarium stand must be the right size for the fish tank that you have selected.  If the tank overhangs, even the slightest bit, the aquarium will likely break or become distorted.

The best (and most expensive) aquarium stands are the ones made wood with a built in cabinet and drawers so that you can conceal all of the supplies that you don’t want seen.  It is best to choose a stand that matches the decor of the room where the aquarium will be housed.

Stands can also be made out of iron or steel.  Stands made of angle iron are usually unattractive and have a bulky appearance.  Wrought iron stands are more attractive and lighter than angle iron.

DIY Stands

There are aquarium stands on the market that you can purchase as a kit and assemble yourself.  These stands are typically made of particle board and are very easy to put together.  They do not usually last very long and can collapse if they get wet.  It is best to avoid them if possible.

Another do-it-yourself option is to buy some good wood, whip out your tools, and build one yourself.  You probably won’t save much money over buying a wooden stand, but a lot of people enjoy working with tools.  An added bonus is that you can make the stand to exactly fit your tastes and needs.

What to Consider When Buying an Aquarium

For obvious reasons, the most important item in your aquarium system is your fish tank. Today there are many different sizes, shapes and styles available on the market. The construction of new tanks are of a much higher quality than the tanks of the past. Old, steel framed tanks should be avoided. The newer tanks are more attractive and sturdier. There is no reason to use one of the older models.

Before you purchase a tank you must assess your situation. Your tank must serve your purposes and fit into the area that you’ve decided to place the tank into and match it’s surroundings. Consider the reasons that you are setting up the tank. Is it going to be in a common area where visitors can view it? Will it be in your private den where only the family will see it? Will it be in your office where you will be the only one enjoying it? These are factors in determining the “look” of the tank that you should buy.

Cost

Before purchasing your tank you will need to know how much cash you have available for the entire aquarium project.  While the tank is the most important part of the set up, it is not the only one.  The costs associated with lights, filtration, heaters and decorations can add up quickly.  Before spending all your money on your tank make sure you have enough left over for all the other items needed.

Consider Starter Kits

To avoid unexpected costs you should consider buying one of the many starter kits available.  These kits typically contain the following:

• Tank


• Hood with Light


• Filter


• Heater


• Thermometer


• Net

Most of the kits are not complete and do not include items such as decorations, gravel or stands.  Make sure you understand what is coming in the package.  The Aquapod kits are quite popular.

Glass, Acrylic or Plastic?

Glass aquariums are still the most popular fish tanks on the market.  All-glass tanks are sturdily constructed with non-toxic silicone sealant and provide years of reliable service.  The glass can be either tempered or plate.  Tempered glass is stronger and lighter, but when it breaks it shatters into a million pieces with all the water coming out at once.  Plate glass is heavier, but when it breaks it only cracks, resulting in a slower leak.

Glass tanks are held together with a plastic frame and are very difficult to scratch.  Because they have all smooth surfaces they typically provide good, undistorted viewing of your tank’s inhabitants.

The big disadvantage of glass tanks is that they can break, leaving you with a big, wet mess and dead fish.

Acrylic tanks have become quite popular in recent years.  They are lighter than glass and can be molded into a wide variety of shapes.  Acrylic is also quite strong and is very difficult to break.

There are problems with acrylic fish tanks though.  The first is that they are significantly more expensive than glass.  Also, because the material is bent during construction you can find that there is a problem with a distorted view.  Finally, acrylic tanks can be scratched rather easily if you are not careful during transporting it or during cleaning.

Plastic aquariums are very inexpensive and come in numerous shapes and sizes.  I do not recommend them because they scratch extremely easily, can melt when they get close to heat and get a funky yellow tint to them when they age.  Even though they are cheap they are not worth the investment.

Tank Size and Space

When you decide where to put the tank you should take measurements of the intended space so that you don’t buy one that is too large (or small) for the area. Don’t forget to leave a little space around the tank for maintenance.

When purchasing your tank you should buy the largest one that you can afford and that your space will allow.  Contrary to common thought, the smaller the tank, the more difficult it is to maintain.  Small changes in water conditions have a greater effect on smaller tanks.  To illustrate this point, consider a ten gallon tank.  If you remove a gallon of water and replace it with a gallon of ammonia, the tank will have 10% ammonia (1 gallon ammonia, 9 gallons water).  If you do the same thing with a 100 gallon tank you will only have 1% ammonia (1 gallon ammonia, 99 gallons water).  The larger the tank, the less effect the pollutants in the tank will have.

Also, larger volumes of water maintain temperatures better than smaller volumes.  It will take longer for a large tank to have a temperature swing in the event of a power outage or heater malfunction.

Shape

Aquariums are available in a wide variety of shapes.  The shape of the aquarium has a lot to do with the amount of oxygen that the water contains.  Oxygen is exchanged between the water and the air at the water’s surface.  The larger the surface area the more air that can be exchanged.  When possible try to get a tank with the largest surface area available.  Your fish will thank you.

Choosing the Best Location For Your Aquarium

The way your house is arranged can have a major impact on the best spot to place your aquarium. The spot that you intend to set up your aquarium should be inspected for some easy to spot problems. A little forethought and planning can go a long way in avoiding disaster and inviting success.

Since aquariums are extremely heavy and must be drained before moving, it can be very frustrating to move a running aquarium system because you spotted it in a location that doesn’t work out. Placing your aquarium in the right spot will help limit your future headaches. It is better to wait a few days to carefully consider your new aquariums location than it is to move it after it is established.

Room Temperature

Regardless of the type of system you set up your aquarium will need to remain a relatively stable water temperature.  Significant changes in temperature will cause stress to your fish and potentially cause illness or even death. 

Your aquarium’s heater can help maintain a constant temperature, but if it fails, or if the room is very cold, you are in trouble.  If the room is too warm there are numerous diseases that can arise.  Also, warmer water does not hold as much oxygen as cooler water which can cause your fish to gasp at the surface or die from asphyxiation.  Ensuring that your aquarium is in a room with appropriate and stable temperatures is essential to assure a long, happy, healthy life for your aquatic pets.

Doors and Windows

Doors can cause problems for aquariums in two ways:

• Drafts- Each time someone opens an exterior door the temperature near it will change.  In the winter, it becomes cooler.  It the summer, it becomes warmer (Duh!).  To make sure that your tank has constant temperatures you should place your aquarium as far from exterior doors as possible.


• Contact- When doors are swung open they can strike an aquarium that is placed too close.  Doorknobs are hard and are usually placed at a perfect height to whack and break a tank.  If your tank has to be placed near a door make sure the door can be opened and closed fully without contacting the tank.

Windows allow a lot of natural light to come in.  All this natural light can cause an explosive growth of algae if the tank is not monitored carefully.  While algae is not bad for the tank it is unsightly and you will find yourself spending lots of time to keep your aquarium looking nice and clean.  The light coming through the window can also cause your tanks temperature to rise quickly.

Traffic, Commotion and Kids

Lots of action outside of the aquarium will cause your fish to be in a state of alert.  They will hide behind decorations constantly, be frequently stressed and as a result, susceptible to disease.  Because of this it is best to avoid the high traffic areas of your home.

Children’s play areas can also cause problems for your fish, not just because of the movement, but also due to the risk of breakage.  Even if the children living in your household know how to behave and won’t cause a problem, you can’t be so sure when the neighbors, nieces, nephews and cousins come over.  bouncing balls, flying blocks and general rough housing can spell disaster.

When your aquarium is placed in an area frequented by children you are going to find fingerprints on the glass and funky items such as peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and action figures swimming in the tank.  It is usually best to avoid placing your aquarium in the kid’s playroom.

Water Supply

When placing your tank consider it’s proximity to a water source.  Dragging buckets of water down a flight of stairs, through the living room, over the mountains and through the woods is not an enjoyable experience.  Water weighs over 8 pounds per gallon.  That five gallon bucket is over 40 pounds.  That 55 gallon tank will take 11 buckets.  See my point?

A great item to help get water to and from your aquarium is an Economy Ultimate Aquarium Gravel Vac - 25 ft. - Boxed Kit.  It costs less than thirty bucks, and you will be extremely happy with the investment.  There are also 50 foot extension kits available.

Space

The size of your home and the rooms within it will have a significant impact on where you can place your aquarium.  The other furnishings of the room will also play a role.  Before setting up your aquarium make sure that your have adequate floor space available.

Electrical Outlets

One of the things I am constantly stressing is that you need to have electrical outlets near your aquarium.  Your lights, heater, filters, etc, all run on electricity.  You want to be able to discreetly run your electrical cords to an outlet.  Having extension cords snaking across the carpet is neither safe nor attractive.

I also suggest having Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) outlets installed.  These are the outlets that your typically find in bathrooms or in kitchens near sinks.  Basically, if a fault occurs in the circuit it turns power off.  Having your arm elbow deep in an aquarium is not a fun experience when a fault occurs.  My hair is still frizzy from the last time it happened to me!

You should also get a surge protector so that all your items can plug into one outlet. A good one is the

Power Center. It has 8 outlets and a Day/Night timer for your lights.

Space for Cleaning

Your are going to have to perform periodic maintenance to your aquarium.  Be sure to leave a little room around the tank so that you can easily reach all surfaces, inside and out.  This includes access to the outside of the rear glass panel.  It will need to be wiped occasionally.

Beginner Information on Saltwater Aquariums

Saltwater systems, also called marine systems, need (you guessed it) saltwater.  The most popular saltwater fish come from tropical waters near coral reefs.  Saltwater systems can be very beautiful and show many vibrant colors, but this beauty comes at a cost.  Saltwater systems can be quite expensive.

Typically, the salt water used in a marine system is made by mixing a commercial sea salt mix with fresh, dechlorinated tap water.  A strong filtration system is needed in a marine aquarium in order to keep the water’s oxygen level high and ammonia levels low.  This is of vital importance in a saltwater set up.  Inadequate filtration can lead to many problems, including a complete die-off in a saltwater aquarium.

Saltwater systems can be broken down into the following subsystems:

1. Coldwater Marine- Used for fish and invertebrates that are native to cooler areas.


2. Tropical Marine- These contain attractive fish from coral reef areas.  This is the most common marine set up.


3. Reef System- Houses invertebrates such as scallops, anemones and corals.  A reef system may also house tropical fish.  This is the most expensive and difficult type to maintain. (Also the most beautiful).  If you are just starting off you may want to start with a fish only tank.

Brackish Systems

A brackish system is the most uncommon of three basic types of aquariums.  Put basically, a brackish system simulates the areas where freshwater and saltwater meet.  The water is too salty to be considered freshwater and not salty enough to be considered saltwater.

Brackish water fish are more expensive than freshwater fish, are not as readily available.  They are typically not as attractive as saltwater fish either.  Most plants can not tolerate the salinity of the brackish system.  Starting off I would strongly suggest sticking with a straight freshwater or saltwater aquarium.

Regardless of what type of system you choose the trick to being successful is to stay organized and have a plan.  When setting up a system, make a list of everything that you are going to need to get started.  Also, keep a written log for maintenance.  Record items such as your water parameters (pH, hardness, ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, etc.), dates that fish were added to the system (including species, size, and where you bought them from) and the dates that filter maintenance was performed.  This way, if you have problems you can always look back and see where changes occurred and figure out how to resolve them and avoid them in the future.

Getting Started With Aquariums

The everyday maintenance of an aquarium is relatively easy and does not require much time or money. You can even set up an aquarium for the first time without spending a lot of cash, as long as you don’t get too crazy in the beginning and are willing to add to your system as time goes by.

To set up an aquarium you only need to follow a handful of very simple instructions.  The key to getting it right is obtaining knowledge and coming here was a good start.  A good aquarium book and the Internet can provide you with all the information that you are going to need.  A little bit of studying will help you gain the knowlegde and confidence that you need to be a complete success in this hobby.  If you do your homework you will achieve complete success in your aquatic dreams.

A good place to gain knowledge is from the various online discussion boards and forums available.  There are almost always numerous people that are more than happy to help you get started and solve any problems you may come across.  Simply type “Aquarium Forum” or “Aquarium Discussion Board” into any search engine and many will pop up.  My personal favorite is AquariumForum.com. They are the definition of community and provide a friendly, helpful environment. There are bigger forums out there, but I don’t believe there are any better ones. (If you sign up be sure to tell them “roc-aquarium” sent you!)

The first question you are going to need to answer is “what type of aquarium do you want?”  There are three basic types of aquariums.  A freshwater, saltwater or brackish water system.  The equipment needed and fish and plants available for each system is significantly different.  I will try to provide an overview of each type and discuss what is involved with each one.

Freshwater Systems

The freshwater system is the most popular aquarium type.  It is considered the best for the beginning aquatic hobbyist for the following reasons:

• -The freshwater system is the least expensive to set up and maintain.


• -Freshwater fish are usually cheaper and more readily available than saltwater or brackish fish.


• -Freshwater fish are typically hardier and easier to care for than saltwater or brackish fish.


• -Many freshwater fish will easily breed in the home aquarium.  This allows another level of enjoyment for many people as well as an opportunity to sell some of your offspring to recoup some of your investment in the hobby.


• -More freshwater fish than saltwater fish can be kept in a given space.

Freshwater systems can be further broken down into tropical systems or coldwater systems.  The main difference between the two is the temperature in which the aquarium is kept.  The majority of fish that you find at the local pet store will be tropical freshwater fish.  Except for goldfish most coldwater species are difficult to find.  Because of these reasons you will have the greatest number of options if you decide on a tropical freshwater system.  Please be advised that unless you live in a consistently warm environment you will need a heater to maintain proper water temperatures for your tropical fish.

Information on Saltwater and Brackish systems will follow in a later post.

Benefits of Owning an Aquarium

There are many great reasons to keep an aquarium.  The hobby is one that the whole family can enjoy together and participate in.  Children can be taught the importance of caring for a pet, as well as the biology involved in the survival of an aquatic environment.  The kids are not the only ones that benefit.  Numerous scientific studies have shown that aquariums can reduce stress and lead to a longer life.

Fish tanks don’t necessarily need to take up a lot of space either.  Aquariums are great for people in apartments or dorm rooms that would like a pet but are unable to keep dogs, cats or wolverines.  You can find an aquarium to fit into any space you have available, whether you want to cover an entire wall in your living room, a small 2 gallon tank on your desk, or anything in between.

Aquarium fish are not going to bark at the neighbors, chew on your new shoes, lift their leg on your couch, or cough up hare balls under your bed.  Other than basic care and maintenance your aquarium will provide very few problems at all.

How To Setup An Aquarium

If you are a beginning aquarist thinking about setting up an aquarium you have probably looked at all the tanks, pumps, plants, tubes, decorations, lights and fish in the local fish store and thought that this process must be quite difficult. While the process of setting up an aquarium, whether freshwater, brackish or saltwater may seem complicated, it is not that difficult if you exercise patience and attention to detail.

The information that follows are my personal recommendations for a beginning hobbyist. You can find many types of equipment on the market and spend as much money as you want on your setup. My goal here is not to give you all the possibilities but to lead you through simple steps to put together a basic system that you can enjoy. What follows are the basics that will get you going and hopefully get you as addicted to maintaining aquariums as I am. Later on you can always perform some extra research and add on extra equipment if you so please.

Getting Started

I just want to make sure you are following the correct path for the system you want to setup. If you are setting up a freshwater aquarium system you will only need to follow the instructions labeled “for all aquarium systems” and skip on any of the items labeled “Marine” or “Brackish.” If you are setting up a Brackish Aquarium system, follow the instructions and add in the items labeled “Brackish.” If you would like to set up a Marine Aquarium System you will follow the general directions and add in (you guessed it) the items labeled “Marine.” See how simple we are making this?

Setting Up Your Aquarium

1) Find an appropriate location (for all aquarium systems):

Find a spot where the flooring is solid (full aquariums are heavy!) and is not near doors, windows or in a very high traffic area. You will need to be close to a good electric supply and not too far from an easy source of water.

2) Assemble the stand (for all aquarium systems)

Ensure that the aquarium stand is stable and will not move or tip over. Be sure to leave enough space on the back for the equipment that will hang off the back of the aquarium and give yourself enough room for cleaning and maintenance.

3) Clean out the tank (for all aquarium systems)

Clean out the aquarium with clear water and a soft sponge. You do not want to use any chemicals (not even Windex). The residue will kill your aquarium fish. Most sponges that you but in the supermarket have chemicals imbedded in them that can harm your aquarium fish. I prefer to use the Scrub and Wash Sponge from Hydra Sponges.

4) Place the tank on the aquarium stand (for all aquarium systems)

Be sure that the tank fits the stand properly. Do not allow any of the tanks edges to hang over. This will cause stress to the tank and will eventually cause leaks or breakage.

5) Add an aquarium background (for all aquarium systems)

Now is the time to add a background to your aquarium. It will be a lot easier to add before adding additional equipment. You can use one on the decorative ones available from pet stores or try a piece of solid colored poster board (no neon colors please).

6)Install the under gravel filter (for all aquarium systems)

Place the perforated under gravel filter plates on the bottom of the tank. Insert the plastic uplift tubes on the large holes in the plate. Place an air stone (with air tubing attached) down each uplift tube. Connect the air tubing to the air pump. Do not plug the pump in yet.

7) Add your substrate (for all aquarium systems)

Put two to four inches of substrate on top of the under gravel filter plate. Slope the substrate so that it is about an inch higher in the back of the tank. Use the following:

• Freshwater: Gravel


• Marine: Dolomite


• Brackish: Pea Gravel

8) Add a powerfilter (for all aquarium systems)

Hang the filter on the rear glass. The filter should be outside the tank, the intake tube should be inside the tank. Rinse the filter pads with clean water and place them in the filter. Do not plug the filter in yet.

9) Add a protein skimmer (Marine)

Follow the instructions that came with the protein skimmer. Do not plug it in yet.

10) Add the heater (for all aquarium systems)

Hang the heater as close to the center of the back tank wall as possible. Do not plug the heater in yet.

11) Install the thermometer (for all aquarium systems)

Hang or stick the thermometer in a corner of the tank. It should be in a spot that will not obstruct your vision of the tank, but is still easily readable.

12) Add decorations (for all aquarium systems)

Freshwater and Brackish: Add plastic plants, rocks, driftwood, and ceramic decorations.

Marine: Add seashells and coral skeletons.

Try to make the decorations look natural. It will have a better visual appeal when the system is running and the fish will be happier.

13) Fill the tank (for all aquarium systems)

Add water to fill the tank.

For Marine and Brackish tanks the water should already be mixed with synthetic sea salt. Marine should have a density of about 1.023 and brackish should be about 1.015.

To avoid having the water move your decorations around you can place a plate on the gravel and slowly pour the water onto the plate. Some people prefer to use a watering can.

14) Add declorinator to the water (for all aquarium systems)

Follow the manufacturer’s directions

15) Check pH (for all aquarium systems)

Adjust as needed.

16) Plug in the equipment (for all aquarium systems)

Add water from the tank to the filter if needed. Adjust the protein skimmer according to the manufacturer’s directions. Adjust the heater.

17) Install the hood and lighting (for all aquarium systems)

Follow the directions from the manufacturer.

18) Allow the aquarium to run for 24-48 hours (for all aquarium systems)

19) Check the temperature, pH, salinity (for all aquarium systems)

Adjust as needed.

20) Add live plants (optional) (for freshwater and brackish tanks only)

You may need to remove some water to avoid spillage. Bury the roots in the gravel. Position the taller plants in the back and shorter plants in the front.

21) Add live rock (Marine)

You may need to remove some water to avoid spillage.

22) Add your starter fish (for all systems).

Add a few small fish to start conditioning the tank. Don’t go crazy here. In the beginning less is more.

That is about it. In the beginning you must make sure to monitor your water conditions daily to make sure that the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels do not get to high. I strongly suggest keeping a log book with your readings. After the chemical levels stabilize and become consistent you can begin to add more fish. Take it slow and your fish will thank you.

12 Tips For Aquarium Beginners

1: Buy the largest tank you can afford and have space for. Preferably 20 gallons (90 litre) or more. Even though small tanks are marketed as “Ideal for a beginner” they are not.  A larger tank will maintain temperature and water conditions better.

2: Wash your filters in tank water, not tap water. Tap water contains chlorine that will kill beneficial bacteria.

3: Make frequent partial water changes. At a minimum, 25% per month should be changed.  It is better to change less water, more frequently. 10-15% per week is ideal.

4: Do not overfeed your fish. The uneaten food will break down and foul your aquarium water.  The food that is eaten will be excreted by the fish and foul your aquarium water.  Fish should eat small amounts 2-3 times per day. As a rough estimate, a fish’s total daily intake should be equal to about the size of their eye.

5: Research your fish before buying. Make sure they are compatable in terms of water conditions and aggressiveness.

6: Observe your fish before buying them. Make sure there are no obvious signs of illness or injury and that they swim freely and effortlessly. There should be no dead, dying or sick fish in the fish stores tanks.

7: Release new fish into the tank gradually. Float the bag of fish in the tank for 15-20 minutes to equalize water temperature. Do not add the fish stores water to your tank.  Drain the bag into a bucket, through a fishnet and allow the fish to swim out of the net into the tank.

8: If possible, use a quarantine tank for your new fish. This will help ensure that your are not introducing disease to your tank.

9: Understand the cycling process and new tank syndrome.

10: Add additional fish to your tank slowly, over time, to ensure that the beneficial bacteria in the tank has time to build and keep up with the tanks rising ammonia loads.

11: Do not overstock! 1″ of fish per gallon is generally used as a guideline, but this must be used with common sense. You simply can not put a 20 inch fish in a 20 gallon tank.

12: Avoid using chemical additives if possible. They have different effects on different fish. Combining chemicals in the tank can lead to new, unintended chemicals occuring in the aquarium.

The most important rule…If you have questions or need help, ask.

With just a little planning, you too can have a gorgeous aquarium.

Fishless Aquarium Cycling

Traditionally, when setting up a new aquarium the fishkeeper buys some cheap, hardy fish, such as zebra danios and adds them to the tank. The purpose of these fish is to provide ammonia through the fishes respiration, waste and the decay of food. The ammonia in the tank helps create a colony of nitrifying bacteria (the good bacteria) and starts the initial cycling of the tank.

Sometimes these starter fish will live through the process, but many times some will die. Those that do survive usually do not live up to their full potential. Because of this many people feel that the traditional method of cycling a new aquarium is not very humane.

Another way to get started has begun to gain acceptance. Instead of relying on the starter fish to provide the ammonia necessary to begin the cycle you can add per ammonia to the tank. When selecting your ammonia make sure that it is pure ammonia, with no additives or perfumes. These chemicals will linger in your tank and kill your aquatic pets.

The process is relatively simple. When setting up the tank add 5 drops of ammonia for every 10 gallons of water added to the tank. Every day add another 5 drops of ammonia until nitrites rise to a measurable limit. At this point you begin adding 3 drops of ammonia per 10 gallons on a daily basis. Continue to do this until nitrates are measurable in your aquarium. When ammonia and nitrites are both reduced to 0 ppm you can add fish to the aquarium.

This method actually reduces the time required to complete the initial cycling of the tank. Using the traditional method you can expect to wait 30-45 days to complete the cycle. Using this method you should be set in 2-3 weeks and sometimes the cycle is complete within 7 days.

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